We traded Matterhorn reflections for lake bridges as we took the scenic train from Zermatt to Lucerne and headed straight for Kapellbrücke – a 14th-century covered wooden bridge lined with flowers and historic paintings beside the octagonal Water Tower – over the Reuss. From there we climbed the Musegg Wall for lake and Alps views, then wandered the Altstadt. As sunset lit the river, we settled onto the waterfront at Pfistern to enjoy the Lucerne specialty – Lozärner Fritschi-Paschtet – and watch boats and swans drift by. After dusk, we admired the Lion Monument beside its still pond and closed the night along the Lake Lucerne beneath grand hotels like the Schweizerhof with swans skimming through the glassy water.

🗓️ Itinerary

This plan came from our August 31, 2025 afternoon exploration and one night stay upon arrival from Zermatt (see our Hiking Gornergrat to Riffelberg blog for the morning itinerary).

🚆 Scenic Train to Lucerne

• 🚆 1:37 PM – Train: Zermatt → Lucerne (3.5h, every 30m at xx:06/:37 from 5 AM – 6:37 PM)
  • 🚆 1:37 PM – Train: Zermatt → Visp (70m)
  • 🚆 2:54 PM – Train: Visp → Bern (1h)
  • 🚆 4:00 PM – Train: Bern → Luzern (1h)
• 🛌 5:01 PM – Arrive, walk (2m) and check into Hotel Waldstätterhof in Lucerne

🚶‍♂️ Lucerne Promenade

• 🌉 5:30 PM – Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke)
  • Walk across the iconic 14th-century wooden bridge with historic paintings and water tower. Great photo spot at golden hour.
• 🏰 6:00 PM – Musegg Wall & Towers (free, open 8 AM – 7 PM, exterior only if closed)
  • Pass by the medieval wall and climb inside the towers.
• 🏘️ 7:00 PM – Old Town (Alstadt) Exploration
  • Stroll through the charming Altstadt – Weinmarkt, Hirschenplatz, and Kornmarkt – known for frescoed buildings, fountains, and cobblestone streets.
• 🍽️ 7:30 PM – Dinner @ Pfistern (🎟️ RESERVE waterfront seat on the Reuss River)
  • Historic ambience with views of Chapel Bridge
• 🦁 8:30 PM – Lion Monument (Löwendenkmal)
  • Visit the famous lion carved into rock, honoring fallen Swiss Guards. Quiet and reflective in the evening.
• 🌊 9:00 PM – Lake Lucerne Promenade
  • Enjoy lakeside views of the Alps, swans, and grand hotels like the Schweizerhof.

💡 Tips

• 🏨 Accommodations near lakefront: Stay walking distance to the lakefront for easy access to lake, bridge, Alstadt and restaurants
• 📸 Chapel Bridge angles: Shoot from Rathausquai and Reusssteg toward the Water Tower. Walk the bridge from both directions to see all the paintings and views of the city.
• 🏰 Musegg Wall & Towers: Quick scenic stop; if open, climb the Zyt tower to see the historic clock gears and city panoramas; if closed, follow the base path between Schirmer and Männli for skyline views.
• 🏘️ Old Town quick loop: Weinmarkt (frescoed guild houses) → Hirschenplatz (narrow lanes) → Kornmarkt (Town Hall arches)
• 🍽️ Reserve riverside restaurants: All the restaurants were very busy so make a reservation to secure a waterfront seat.
• 🦁 Lion Monument optional: About a 15 minute walk from the Altstadt; a quiet memorial and quick photo stop if time allows

📸 Summary

🚆 Scenic Train to Lucerne

The journey from Zermatt to Lucerne is one of Switzerland’s most picturesque rail routes, winding through alpine valleys, vineyard-covered hillsides, and storybook villages. After passing through Visp and Brig, the landscape opens into rolling countryside and glistening lakes, including views of Lake Thun and Lake Brienz near Interlaken, followed by glimpses of Lake Lucerne as you approach the city. The shifting scenery – from snowcapped peaks to turquoise waters – makes this ride feel like a highlight in itself, offering a peaceful transition from the high Alps to the heart of central Switzerland.

📈 Lucerne Walking Route

Below is the Lucerne walking route we followed across Chapel Bridge to the Musegg Wall & Towers, looping through the Alstadt and crossing the main bridges, then finishing at Pfistern on the Reuss riverfront.

🌉 Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke)

Lucerne’s signature covered wooden bridge dates to about the mid-14th century and is named for nearby St. Peter’s Chapel. Inside, 17th-century triangular panels by Hans Heinrich Wägmann depict scenes from Swiss and Lucerne history, while the octagonal Water Tower beside it predates the bridge and has served as a prison, torture chamber, treasury, and archive. Disaster struck in 1993 when a fire destroyed the central span and roughly two-thirds of the paintings. The city rebuilt quickly and the bridge reopened in 1994, with surviving artworks restored and reinstalled. As you stroll across the bridge, you can see some of the charred artwork.

Other Videos: YouTube Short

🏰 Musegg Wall & Towers

The Musegg is a rare intact medieval rampart that crowns the city with sweeping lake-and-alpine views. When the towers are open seasonally, climb one for the skyline panorama – and make a point to ascend the Zyt tower to see the historic clock gears working up close; if they’re closed, the base path between Schirmer and Männli still delivers great vantage points.

🏘️ Alstadt

Frescoed guild houses, trickling fountains, and cobblestones set the scene for an easy loop through Lucerne’s Alstadt. Start at Weinmarkt for painted facades, weave the narrow lanes of Hirschenplatz, then pass under Kornmarkt’s Town Hall arches.

🍽️ Pfistern

A storied guild house with a frescoed façade and timbered rooms, Pfistern pairs classic Swiss ambiance with front-row river views. Reserve a waterfront table to watch boats drift past and see the Chapel Bridge glow at golden hour. I ordered the spectacular Lozärner Fritschi-Paschtete, a Lucerne signature “vol-au-vent” puff-pastry filled with veal-and-pork Brätkügeli (meatballs), mushrooms, apples, raisins, and cream sauce. It was the perfect spot to linger over wine as swans glided across the rippling Reuss.

🦁 Lion Monument (Löwendenkmal)

A solemn sandstone lion carved into the quarry wall commemorates the Swiss Guards and invites quiet reflection by its still pond. Mark Twain called it “the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world,” a sentiment that fits the setting perfectly. Visit in the evening for softer light and fewer crowds; step to the left side of the water for the cleanest reflection shot. Keep voices low and linger a moment to let the setting’s calm do its work.

🏨 Hotel Waldstätterhof

Hotel Waldstätterhof was a super-convenient stay just steps from the station, ideal for dropping bags and getting straight out to explore. Ask for a quieter courtyard-facing room if you’re sensitive to street noise, and grab your Lucerne Guest Card at check-in for free Zone 10 buses and sight discounts. The station mini-mall across the street is handy for water, snacks, and last-minute supplies, especially on Sundays when many shops close.

🥾 Backup Plan: Stoos Ridge Hike en route to Lucerne

We unfortunately couldn’t fit the Stoos Ridge hike into our itinerary so we took the direct route to Lucerne. The Stoos Ridge hike runs from Klingenstock to Fronalpstock, a short but spectacular ridgeline walk with sweeping Lake Lucerne and Alpine views, occasional narrow and exposed sections, and a moderate T2–T3 rating. Below is the plan we developed in case we could do this en route from Zermatt if we had to leave early due to inclement weather.

• 🚆 7:30 AM – Transit: Zermatt → Klingenstock (5.5h)
  • 🚶‍♂️ 7:30 AM – Walk (7m) to Train Station  
  • 🚆 7:52 AM – Train: Zermatt → Andermatt (3h) → Arrive 10:46 AM
  • 🚆 10:50 AM – Train: Andermatt  → Göschenen (16m) → Arrive 11:06 PM
  • 🚆 11:09 PM – Train: Göschenen → Schwyz (49) → Arrive 11:58 PM
  • 🚌 12:07 PM – Bus 501: Schwyz, Bahnhof → Schwyz, Stoosbahn (10m) → Arrive 12:24 PM
  • 🚠 12:40 PM – Funicular: Schwyz Stoosbahn (Talstation) → Stoos SZ village (7m) → Arrive 12:47 PM
    • 🧳 Drop luggage at Blend & Brew
    • Walk (19m) to Chairlift  
  • 🚡 1:05 PM – Chairlift: Stoos SZ → Klingenstock (7m, every 1m)
• 🥾 1:12 PM – Stoos Ridge Hike: Klingenstock → Fronalpstock
  • 2h, 2.7mi, 938 ft elevation change 
  • Panoramic ridgeline with lake and Alpine views, exposed trail with narrow sections – rated moderate T2–T3, sun protection essential
• 🚡 3:15 PM – Reach Fronalpstock summit, enjoy panoramic views or snack
• 🚡 3:30 PM – Chairlift: Fronalpstock → Stoos village (14m, last down 4:00 PM)
  • 🍽️ Optional: Snack in Stoos village at Fronalpstock Summit Restaurant (panoramic terrace seating)
  • 🧳 Collect luggage at Blend & Brew
• 🚆 4:10 PM – Transit: Stoos → Lucerne (1.5h)
  • 🚠 4:10 PM – Funicular: Stoos SZ → Schwyz Stoosbahn (Talstation) (7m every 30m, last departure 10:40 PM)
  • 🚌 4:29 PM – Bus 501: Schwyz, Bahnhof → Schwyz (10m, last reasonable departure 7:29 PM) → Arrive 4:49 PM
  • 🚆 4:53 PM – Train: Schwyz → Arth-Goldau (7m)
  • 🚆 5:15 PM – Train:  Arth-Goldau → Lucerne (26m)
  • 🏙️ 5:41 PM – Arrive Lucerne