Our morning on the Gornergrat route was the perfect finale to our time in Zermatt – a mix of iconic views, peaceful trails, and a few surprises along the way. We said goodbye to Switzerland in grand fashion with a ride on the historic Gornergrat Railway, the highest open-air railway in Europe, climbing to the 3,089 m summit where the Matterhorn and Gorner Glacier stretched out before us in a panorama so vast it hardly felt real. After an impromptu snowball fight and dozens of glacier photos, we began our downhill descent toward Riffelberg, pausing at Riffelsee for the classic reflection shot and then discovering an even quieter second lake just beyond it that completely stole our hearts. The path wound through rocky terrain, ending with a relaxed drink on the terrace at Riffelberg Station, the Matterhorn still watching over us one last time before our train back to Zermatt and onward to Lucerne.

🗓️ Itinerary

This plan came from our August 31, 2025 visit (Day 12), based in Zermatt and transitioning to Lucerne in the afternoon.

• 🧳 7:45 AM – Check out and store luggage with hotel
• 🚶🏼‍♂️ 8:00 AM – Walk to Gornergrat Bahn Railway 
• 🚆 8:24 AM – Gornergrat Bahn Railway: Zermatt GGB → Gornergrat (33m, every 24m from 7 AM – 7 PM)
  • 🎟️ BOOK tickets on SBB with Half-Fare discount.
  • 💡Arrive at least 10 minutes early to ensure you can get in line to secure a seat. Consider booking the Sunrise Trip at Riffelsee and Gornergrat to avoid crowds and ensure a seat. Sit on right side for best views.
• 🏔️ 8:57 AM – Arrive at Gornergrat (3,089m)
  • 📸 Enjoy panoramic views of the Matterhorn, Gorner Glacier, and surrounding peaks
• 🥾 9:30 AM – Hike: Gornergrat → Riffelberg (Rick Steves’ favorite hike in the region)
  • Total: ~2h with photo stops, 2.6 mi, easy, 1769 ft descent (💡 Do on clearest day for best visibility, EarthTrekkers tips)
  • 🌊 Gornergrat → Riffelsee Lake (~40m, 1.6 mi): capture iconic Matterhorn reflection photos
  • 🍽️ Lunch: Picnic along hike (Backup: Restaurant Riffelberg)
  • 🐑 Look for sheep near Alpine Garden (live sheep map, live tracking only during summer and ended Aug 29)
  • ↘️ Riffelsee Lake → Riffelberg Station (~30m, 1 mi)
  • ☕️ Optional: Drinks at Riffelberg Station in cozy chairs with Matterhorn views
• 🚆 12:10 PM – Gornergrat Bahn Railway: Riffelberg → Zermatt GGB (29m, every 24m from 7:46 AM – 7:20 PM)
  • 🎟️ BOOK tickets on SBB with Half-Fare discount.
  • 💡 Sit on left side for best views.
• 🧳 12:40 PM – Walk (8m) to Hotel Parnass Zermatt and get luggage
  
  
• Lucerne: See our Lucerne blog for transit and city exploration during the second half of this day

💡 Tips

• ⏰ Arrive early for the Gornergrat Bahn – The morning trains fill quickly, especially on clear days. Arriving 10-15 minutes early will help you grab a right-side window seat for the best Matterhorn views on the way up. We missed the earliest train and arrived just as ours was boarding, which meant standing for most of the ride up with only partial views of the Matterhorn.
• 🌦️ Check weather before committing – Check MeteoSwiss app and Zermatt.ch webcams (Gornergrat and Riffelberg). This hike is all about visibility and should be saved for your clearest day. If clouds obscure the Matterhorn, consider swapping this with another day earlier in your trip since the reflection shots at Riffelsee depend on calm, clear skies.
• 🎥 Keep camera ready – The Gorner Glacier and Matterhorn look completely different from this angle than Sunnegga or Schwarzsee. Pause at Gornergrat and again just before Riffelsee for the most striking compositions.
• 🐑 Sheep spotting – If you’re visiting late August, the tracked black-nosed sheep usually roam between Rotenboden and Riffelberg. Check the live sheep map before heading up, though the official tracking often ends near August 29.
• 🧺 Pack a picnic – Bring snacks or lunch from Zermatt since options are limited mid-trail. The meadows near Riffelsee are perfect for a quiet picnic with lake, glacier, and Matterhorn views.
• ☕️ Take a mini break at Riffelberg Station – The terrace has cozy loungers facing the Matterhorn, ideal for one last drink in Zermatt before your onward journey.
• 🧳 Plan your luggage timing – If transitioning in the afternoon, ensure to coordinate with your hotel. Allow buffer time to collect it before your connection.

📸 Summary

🚂 Gornergrat Bahn Railway 

The Gornergrat Bahn is one of Switzerland’s most scenic mountain railways, steadily climbing from Zermatt through forests and alpine meadows toward the high peaks. As the cogwheel train ascends, the Matterhorn comes into view in all its glory, framed by rugged ridgelines and glacier valleys. Sitting on the right side provides the best views on the way up, and each curve of the track reveals a new perspective on Zermatt far below.

🏔️ Gornergrat

At 3,089 m, the Gornergrat offers an unmatched 360° panorama of the Alps, including the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and the vast Gorner Glacier stretching below. The air is thin and crisp, the views immense, and the atmosphere serene. It’s the perfect place to linger, admire the glacial landscape, before beginning the descent hike.

🥾 Hike: Gornergrat → Riffelberg

This downhill trail is a Zermatt classic and one of the region’s most photogenic routes. The path winds past the iconic Riffelsee, where the Matterhorn’s reflection glimmers on still mornings, and continues through rolling alpine meadows dotted with wildflowers and grazing sheep. Despite its steady descent, the terrain is manageable with good shoes or poles, and the sweeping glacier views make it truly unforgettable.

📈 Hiking Stats

Time: 1:07 moving, 2:20 elapsed to allow photo and picnic stops
Distance: 2.9 miles (4.7 km) included a few hill detours and a lot of walking around Riffelsee
Max Elevation: 10,082 ft at Gornergrat
Cumulative Ascent: 247 ft
Cumulative Descent: 1,823 ft
Difficulty: Easy
Directions: From the Gornergrat station, follow the trail signs toward Riffelberg. The wide gravel path begins just below the observatory and descends gradually along the ridge, offering constant Matterhorn and glacier views. You’ll reach Riffelsee at about halfway (~40m, 1.4 mi), where a short detour down leads to the lake’s best reflection viewpoint. Continue past the lake, keeping right at the next junction to stay on the Riffelberg route rather than descending toward Rotenboden. The trail winds through alpine meadows and pastureland before the final downhill stretch brings you directly to Riffelberg Station, where you can stop for a drink on the terrace and then catch the Gornergrat Bahn back to Zermatt.
Additional Resources: Garmin Data, All Trails

📸 Steinmännchen Photo Spot

Just after leaving Gornergrat, be sure to stop at the Steinmännchen Photo Spot, where countless stone cairns stand silhouetted against a backdrop of glaciers and peaks. From here, you’re treated to an incredible 360° panorama that stretches across the Matterhorn, the Monte Rosa range, and the vast Gorner Glacier below. It’s a breathtaking spot to pause for photos, soak in the alpine silence, and perhaps add your own stone to this ever-growing mountain landmark.

🪞 Riffelsee Reflections

Just below Gornergrat, Riffelsee is one of Zermatt’s most photographed alpine lakes, famous for its mirror-like reflection of the Matterhorn on calm mornings. Surrounded by open meadows and rocky ridges, the short walk down offers postcard-perfect views. Early risers often come here for sunrise shots when the mountain glows golden across the still water, while mid-morning visitors like us can enjoy a peaceful picnic spot with crisp alpine air and distant glacier views.

🪞 Second Riffelsee Reflections

While most visitors stop at the main Riffelsee for the iconic Matterhorn reflection, the smaller lake just beyond it turned out to be the true hidden gem. Tucked slightly off the main path, this second lake offered crystal-clear reflections, perfectly still water, and a tranquil escape from the crowds gathered at the first viewpoint. With the Matterhorn mirrored flawlessly against the sky and the only sounds being alpine breezes and distant cowbells, it felt like a secret pocket of serenity high in the mountains. It’s a reminder that in Switzerland, the best views often wait just a few steps beyond where everyone else stops.

☕️ Riffelberg

Perched high above Zermatt with wide-open Matterhorn views, Riffelberg is a peaceful mid-mountain stop that feels worlds away from the bustle below. The Riffelberg Station terrace features sunny loungers and a cozy restaurant where you can relax with a drink or light meal – we lingered over tea and coffee, savoring the crisp alpine air. On clear days, the panorama rivals that of the Gornergrat summit, making Riffelberg a perfect spot to unwind and reflect before catching the Gornergrat Bahn back down to the valley.